Storing Your Race Car

It seems that all good things must come to an end. So it is with the racing season. The emotions that surround this yearly event are varied. Some racers look forward to the rest from the weekly battles and time spent in the garage preparing the car. Others are saddened by the lack of intensity the off-season offers.

Everybody needs a break once in a while, though. Take a vacation, get a new perspective, and give yourself the opportunity to rest mentally and physically. Spend some long periods of quality time with your family.

The point is that, depending on where in the country you live, you'll likely have to prepare your race car for several months of inactivity. No matter what class you're racing, merely letting the car sit after the last race of the season until the start of a new one is a recipe for mechanical disaster. The off-season is the opportunity to install some new things on the car, or at the very least take some time to think about changes to make.

If you live in the Northeast and the racetracks are covered in snow by late fall or early winter, the season is over. If you live in the Deep South or the West and the winters are mild, the season never really ends. You may have winter and summer racing seasons, but there isn't an off-season.

For those who race only one season per year, however, there are some things you need to do to protect the car when it's time to put it under cover for several months. For example, many of the fluids are, or could be, hydroscopic, meaning they absorb water from the air. This is especially true if your car runs on alcohol.

One of the best ways to approach winterizing your car is from a systemic approach. Work each system on the car-brakes, steering, front suspension, rear suspension, fuel, cooling system, transmission, rearend, driveshaft, accessories drive, chassis, body, and the engine. If you work each system, you can do a thorough job of preparing your car for the extended downtime. This is assuming you're not going to make wholesale changes to your car in the off-season-in which case, the car will be disassembled.

The first step will be to give the brakes a thorough inspection, including all of the lines (both hard lines and flex lines) and the master cylinder and related linkage. This also includes the mounting brackets and connections at the junctures of the steel hard lines and the flex lines. Remove the front brakes and clean and inspect the pads. Remove the disc and inspect the bearings.

This is also a great time to inspect the spindles for any damage. If the bearings are in good condition, clean and repack them with the correct grade of grease, then reinstall and reassemble using new seals. It's also a great time to replace the brake fluid and bleed the system. Brake fluid does not last forever. As the fluid goes through the heat cycles that go hand in hand with the extreme use we place on the brakes, the fluid breaks down, it gets over-temped, water is absorbed into it, and air is introduced into the fluid. It needs to be replaced at regular intervals and at season's end.

Examine all of the components that make up the steering system, starting with the steering wheel, especially if it has a quick disconnect. Look at the shaft and any universal joints between the wheel and steering box or the rack-and-pinion. If the joints have any excessive play, replace them. Look for any damage, such as a bent steering shaft, that might have occurred as a result of a crash. Check the rack or the steering box for any leakage. Look at the tie rods and tie-rod ends, checking for any excessive play or damage. Replace as required.

Examine the spring perches and look at the A-arms, searching for any bends or signs of rubbing against other components. If you are running OEM arms, look at bushings for any signs of damage. Check the ball joints for excessive play or binding. Look at the springs for damage or any signs that they're rubbing against something. Lubricate all of the moving joints. Pay special attention to any torn or damaged dust boots, and replace as necessary. Service the shocks as required. Check the shocks for damage and return all settings to a known position or to your baseline settings. Check the shock-mounting hardware and look for any external damage. Realign the front end after any components have been removed or replaced. Clean and lubricate any friction points or linkages.

Depending on the type of rear suspension you're running, the activities will be different on different types of cars. From a generic perspective, look for any bent or damaged control arms, and check any Heim joints for damage either to the Heim joint itself, the mounting hardware, or the chassis mounting brackets. Clean and lubricate as required. Check the rear shocks for damage and return all settings to a known position or to your baseline settings. Check the shock-mounting hardware and look for any external damage. Check the springs or the torsion bars for damage. Lubricate all moving components at the hinge points.

Drain the tank, fuel lines, and the carburetor, and remove and replace any fuel filters. If you're using reusable filters, clean and reinstall them. If you're running a fuel cell, take it apart and examine the foam. The foam doesn't last forever, and if it starts to break down during the racing season, it can cause some real grief. Inspect it, and if you have any doubts ask the manufacturer how it should look and feel. Check the fuel lines for any wear from abrasion or damage from the race surface. Many times a rock or piece of debris can bounce off the racetrack and damage an external fuel line and end the race for you. Or, in the worse-case scenario, it can cause damage later. Now is the time to check this out and prevent it from happening.