The cutting is complete (sort...
The cutting is complete (sort of), and we are ready to build in the rollcage. We still need to finish out the fenderwells and some other odds and ends.
"All you need is a wire welder and plenty of brake cleaner," Jim says. "You can do it with a stick welder, but it's not as precise and a wire welder just penetrates better." Step one is to thoroughly clean the gears with brake cleaner. The entire operation can be done with the gears still inside the housing, but we removed ours to show the process better. To keep all the weld splatter from sticking to the ring gear or any other critical surface, coat everything liberally with anti-splatter spray. This makes the process of cleanup a snap after you've completed your task.
"You really want to put some good heat to the gears to make sure the weld penetrates and everything holds when you start stressing it," Jim explains. "Turn the welder up like you are welding 11/44-inch to 31/48-inch thick material." Jim starts by welding the top and bottom gear on one side to hold everything in place, then switches to the other side to weld all four gears before returning to weld the last two. Finally, remember that you are welding steel to cast iron, so let everything cool down slowly. Using water or air to cool the piece too quickly, will likely develop cracks in your brand-new weld.
|OUR COSTS |
|SO FAR |
|• ’89 Mustang |
| hulled body ||$150 |
|* '93 front suspension ||$300 |
|* '93 rearend || $200 |
|* Lock rearend || $35 |
| Total ||$485 |