"All you need is a wire welder and plenty of brake cleaner," Jim says. "You can do it with a stick welder, but it's not as precise and a wire welder just penetrates better." Step one is to thoroughly clean the gears with brake cleaner. The entire operation can be done with the gears still inside the housing, but we removed ours to show the process better. To keep all the weld splatter from sticking to the ring gear or any other critical surface, coat everything liberally with anti-splatter spray. This makes the process of cleanup a snap after you've completed your task.

"You really want to put some good heat to the gears to make sure the weld penetrates and everything holds when you start stressing it," Jim explains. "Turn the welder up like you are welding 11/44-inch to 31/48-inch thick material." Jim starts by welding the top and bottom gear on one side to hold everything in place, then switches to the other side to weld all four gears before returning to weld the last two. Finally, remember that you are welding steel to cast iron, so let everything cool down slowly. Using water or air to cool the piece too quickly, will likely develop cracks in your brand-new weld.

OUR COSTS
SO FAR
• ’89 Mustang
hulled body $150
* '93 front suspension $300
* '93 rearend $200
* Lock rearend $35
Total $485
SOURCE
Jim Cook Race Cars
185 Glenwood Dr.
Concord
NC  28025
7-04/-786-6979
LWP Auto Salvage
4731 Stough Rd.
Concord
NC  28027
7-04/-782-9571
Love Auto Parts
11900 Hwy. 29 N.
Charlotte
NC  28262
8-00/-858-7087
Mechanix Wear
24950 Anza Dr.
Valencia
CA  91355
6-61/-257-0474
www.mechanix.com