The above also applies to semi-unibody cars like Camaros. The front clip should be utilized as the front of the chassis and the rest built like an IMCA Modified. The sheetmetal could be trashed and the car still work. On Camaros, the worst-case scenario is when the cage is built and attached to the body and then braced to the front clip with the rubber body biscuits still in place. But I digress.
Making the stiffness of the Honda or a similar car greater by interior bracing greatly improves handling. I wish I could tell you some setup secrets, but I can't. After all, I'm learning, too. Most information I find on FWD unibody cars is directed toward road race cars, but an oval is different.
The following is only my thinking on the subject. I will let you know later how it all worked.
I'm writing this in mid-December and won't be able to race before late February. However, much to the chagrin of my dear spouse, I have managed 16 laps around the house. She didn't appreciate the berm forming across the front yard until I explained that I was doing some landscaping.
Lock the differential (weld the spider gears) and use strong springs on the right and weak springs on the left, no sway bar anywhere. Adjust crossweight to the opposite of the normal rear-wheel drive car. Just a guess, I'm thinking about 30 percent crossweight from the left-rear to the right-front (see illustration, p. 60 of this issue). Have some stagger, build in all the front weight you can, and drive off the left-front through the corners. Remember these are my thoughts, not absolute results.
Where to find it
In this issue of Sleepy's Track Tech, reference was made to various parts, tools, etc. Listed below are companies that manufacture parts meeting the previous descriptions. The manufacturer can direct you to the nearest dealer.
Chuck Nuytten Carburetor Specialty Service
P.O. Box 1028
VP Racing Fuels Inc.