High Quality Racing Radios

* Mount the radio as high as possible and use an external antenna if you can.

* Use resistor-style spark plugs and suppression-style spark plug wires.

* Talk to the vendor about your exact requirements: where the radio will be used; how the tracks are laid out (are there a lot of buildings or transporters between the car and crew chief); and how much you can afford to spend. Also, ask if the equipment can be easily upgraded. Most systems are custom-built so the more details you can give the builder, the better radio system you'll end up with.

I Built My Own
Talk's cheap ... especially if you build your own radio system. My plan was to build the least expensive radio system possible that would work on a short track. The target price was under $100.

I went with a pair of Audiovox FR-560FM units. There were cheaper ones (and perhaps better ones) on the market, but Audiovox offers a fairly complete array of accessories that looked like they could be easily modified for in-car use.

I discovered that the combined earpiece/microphone in an Audiovox accessory kit could fit comfortably inside my full-face helmet. I don't think I'd want to run a three-hour enduro with the setup, but for 30 minutes to an hour, it will be just fine.

The biggest challenge is re-wiring the push-to-talk (PTT) switch. Most of the FRS earpiece/microphone units include a PTT switch on the wire that goes to the radio, but the switch falls to about mid-chest on most drivers. In addition to a bad location, the PTT button is so small that a driver wearing gloves would never find it. By gently prying the plastic switch apart and studying how it works, you should be able to figure out which wires need to be tapped in order to add a separate, larger button in a more convenient location.

Most drivers prefer the more convenient steering wheel-mounted button. It just takes more time and engineering to build. You will need to add a coiled wire that is long enough to twist around the steering shaft in turns. If the steering wheel is removable, you will want to add a plug-in connector at the dash.

Be careful soldering. The wires are tiny; the components very lightweight. Also, be careful of too much heat near resistors, which can be destroyed by high temperatures. Try to use as much "shielded" wire as possible to help block ignition static, and use resistor spark plugs and suppression-type wires. Apply a generous layer of clear silicone to all connections to protect them from dirt and vibration.

Because the FRS doesn't allow for an extra antenna, mount the radio in the car as high as possible. The closer it is to the roof, the better the chances are it will send and receive signals to the crew chief or spotter.

For the crew chief, good quality headphones (the types sold for scanners work well) are a must. He'll need the headphones to muffle the track noise. (The driver's helmet muffles it inside the car). With this system, the chief will still have to talk directly into the radio to transmit, but in most cases that shouldn't be a problem. You can add a microphone to the scanner if you find one is needed (but that means you'll blow the budget).

The final product isn't very elegant and it has some fairly severe limitations, but the no-frills system should work on most tracks where the car and crew are always within sight of one another and the ignition system isn't too radical. If you are running on larger tracks or with a higher performance car, spring for the good stuff. It will pay for itself.-Jerry F. Boone