Stock Car Rollcage Build - Caged Beast

To do this, jack up the left front corner of the chassis so that a 1 3/4-inch block can be placed on top of the left-front jackstand. The right front can then be flexed down till it rests on the jackstand again. A couple of sand bags will do. Make sure the rear of the chassis is also resting on jackstands. This frame twisting should result in about 55 percent crossweight. This will be fine for pavement racing; dirt would require about half as much.

Once the frame is properly twisted, you will find the left-front 'cage bar will need to be shortened. Trim any of the vertical 'cage bars as necessary to fit down to the frame. Use some of A&A's angle gussets to strengthen the 'cage-to-chassis welds. Reach through holes cut in the body to weld it to the chassis. The 'cage and, to a lesser extent, the body will hold the frame in position. Don't be surprised that the chassis will still flex out of some of the twist we put in.

Small DetailsThe battery box was mounted behind the driver's seat. It was attached in two places to the 'cage. Many rules require the battery to be contained in a plastic box. This is always a good idea. Our mount, using more of A&A's brackets, provided room for such a box. NEVER use the weak plastic strap that comes with the box to hold it down. It was designed only to hold the top on. Steel straps are one good way to mount the box. We used seatbelts that we saved in stripping out the car. They are wonderfully strong.

While we are welding in bars, we need some under the fuel cell for mounting purposes. Our 8 gallon, Jaz fuel cell is a tank in a steel can. Though many tracks don't require the steel can, I must recommend you have one. JAZ installs a plunger-type plate in the filler to seal the tank in the unlikely situation of the cap being torn off in a crash. Surely you would not forget to put the cap on! A rollover vent is included as is foam to reduce sloshing

I have seen a number of tanks supported on small tubing running under the can lip and going from framerail to framerail. The tank hangs down and its weight can be placed lower. However, I prefer the safety of substantial bars under the tank. In this case we built an X-member of 1 3/4-inch tubing that will strengthen the frame and support the tank. Two and one-half x 1/8-inch steel strap wraps around the bars and the tank. Long 3/8-inch bolts clamp the assembly together. Remember, we will be adding rear ballast. Three birds, one stone, not bad.

At this point, most of the heavy fabrication was done. There will be many small things as we go along so don't throw away the welder yet. Next month it will start looking like a race car. We will be fabricating and installing brakes, steering, an oil accumulator, and wiring in a trick electrical system using both 12 and 18 volts. You can contact Sleepy at: sleepy.gomez@prodigy.net