Electric trailer brakes are...
Electric trailer brakes are different from those found on passenger vehicles, but they aren't so complicated that they can't be serviced by a home mechanic.
While the axles are off the ground, take a serious look at the condition and type of tires.
"A lot of new manufacturers are shipping units with P-rated tires," says Warren Secord, a Goodyear dealer who supplies tires to the bulk of the racers in the Pacific Northwest.
"A P-rated tire is OK for light duty," he says, "but most racers seriously overload their trailers. The P-rated tires are to be inflated to about 35 pounds, but most trailer tires need at least 40 to 50 pounds. That means they should be rated for up to 60 pounds on the sidewall. If tires can't handle the weight, the sidewall flexes, builds up heat, and eventually fails. It is especially true in the summer, when the pavement already is hot.
"I can't even begin to count the number of times I've walked through a pit area and seen tires that really don't belong on trailers and are so underinflated they are dangerous. It is one of those things a racer never thinks about until he has a flat along the interstate.
"The worst thing about some tire failures is as the tire shreds, it cuts the wires to the brakes, and then it becomes really dangerous because the driver has lost braking to one or more tires."
Secord says Goodyear just released a tire made specifically for trailers, with a six-ply sidewall and heavyweight rating. They cost about $50 more each compared to a lighter tire.
"One of the problems with trailer tires," Secord says, "is that they don't get a lot of miles on them so they still have a lot of tread depth even after they've been around for years.
"But they usually live outside where they are in the sun constantly. The sun beating down on them cracks the sidewalls and makes them prone to failure."
Nick Barnes taps a new bearing...
Nick Barnes taps a new bearing and seal into place. He says anyone savvy enough to work on a race car has the skill and probably the tools to service the trailer.
Secord says it isn't unusual to have a racer arrive at his shop with a full-depth blown tire and discover the rest of them are also ready to go.
"You can get a pretty good idea of a tire's condition just based on its age," he says. "If it is more than five years old it is probably near the end of its life. Look for cracks on the sidewall, where it mounts to the wheel and even between the treads."
With the wheels off, check the bearings.
Pace American says bearings fail when they run dry or are not properly adjusted. Check the manual that came with your trailer or contact the manufacturer to see what kind of bearing grease is recommended. Not all greases are compatible, and using the wrong kind can create problems.
Barnes says when repacking bearings, it is important to work in a clean area where they can't be contaminated. When adjusting bearings, it is better to run them a bit loose rather than a bit tight, he says.
Just because your trailer isn't used much doesn't mean it doesn't require maintenance.
"Inactivity can be more damaging to bearings than everyday use," says Pace American's owner's manual. "When a trailer is parked, many times the spindle, bearings, or hub is warm. As these cool down, a spot of condensation forms, which is the beginning of a rust spot. The longer a trailer sits idle, the deeper this rust spot becomes."
Wheel bearing failures can be the death of a trailer. "They are probably the most common reason trailers fail," adds Phil Dietzenbach, service manager at Golden Gait.
Dietzenbach says bearings should be repacked every 12 months or 12,000 miles.
The latest addition to trailers...
The latest addition to trailers are spindles drilled with grease holes, allowing mechanics to refresh bearing grease without disassembly. Still, they should be taken apart and repacked once a year.
"For guys racing a stock car, it should be a pretty easy job," he says, "if they just remember to do it."
The job doesn't require special tools.
"It's simpler than working on a car," Barnes says. "Anybody who can work on a race car can maintain a trailer and save a lot of money. It's a cheap investment in protecting your valuables. You don't want them sitting by the side of the road."
Barnes also suggests that if you do your own trailer maintenance and need parts, bring the old ones with you to the store to save repeat trips.
Golden Gait repacks bearings on 400 to 500 trailers every year and has used a variety of bearing greases, finally deciding there is nothing they like as much as the blue synthetic high-temperature bearing grease from Kendall (www.kendallmotoroil.com).
"That's all we'll use anymore," he says. "And no one should ever repack trailer bearings without replacing the seals. People do it, but it makes absolutely no sense."
Golden Gait also says that when the time comes to install new bearings, the only replacement brand the company uses is Timken (www.timken.com).
"We've tried others," Masud says, "but we've never found any that work as well."
If it is an open trailer, check the condition of the ramps and deck. Is the wood rotted? Are the ramps rusted and in need of paint? How about whatever holds the deck to the frame? Are all the nuts, bolts, and washers in place? If it is time to replace questionable nuts and bolts, use stainless steel hardware because it won't rust.
The last thing to check is the safety equipment.
"Chains should be rated at twice the trailer," says Masud. "If the loaded trailer weighs 5,000 pounds, then each chain should be rated for at least 10,000 pounds."
"And look at how they are attached and the condition they are in," adds Dietzenbach. "Once they start dragging on the ground, it is like they've been held against a bench grinder. Whatever they started out as, they aren't that anymore."