This is a new filter for us to view the internal parts without the oil.
Filter Examination
Know What to Look for Inside Your Oil Filter
It has been said that the oil is a window into the engine. With that in mind, you should be looking for several things when you change your oil:
* Fluids in the oil that are not oil, such as water.
* Bits of metal stuck to the magnetic probe on the drain plug.
* The smell of the oil. If it smells like the remains of a campfire, you have a problem.
* The look of the oil as it drains. It should flow easily and not look like black, curdled milk. No chunks!
* You also need to look into the oil filter for any solids that may be residing in the filter.
Looking into the oil filter is a very simple process. Cutting the filter open requires a special tool. The closest comparison would be a type of can opener that works on a different plane. The tool is fairly reasonable in cost. Its price ranges from $39.95 to $59.95. You may ask why a special tool is required, since you could just saw the filter open. The act of sawing the filter open will result in chips, and that defeats the purpose of cutting the filter open, considering you are looking for metal chips in the first place. The use of an oil filter cutter makes the process very easy.
Once the filter is drained, place it in the cutter and place the blade against the filter shell, rotating the filter against the blade. Once the filter is open, carefully remove the filter element and start the examination process. Be aware that no matter how long you let the filter drain, there will still be oil in the filter, so be prepared. Look in the pleats of the filter for any residue that does not belong in the oil. This may be metal chips that were not cleaned out from the machining processes, lint from shop rags, and small parts of bearings. You may even find excess gasket sealer, providing yet another reason to be careful with sealers. The point is that you are looking for things that do not belong in your oil.
The oil flows from the outer chamber around the filter element, then through the element, and back into the engine through the center of the filter. This means any nasty bits will be found on the outside of the filter, trapped in or on the pleats of the filter element. | 
The arrows indicate where you will most likely find the foreign material the filter may have trapped. | 
The oil in this engine was overheated, as referenced by the smell and the color of the element. However, there were no metal particles in this filter. |
If you find particles that do not belong in the oil, then you need to make some decisions about the next steps. Depending on what you find, it may require some engine work to fix a problem before it blows up in your wallet. Prior to tearing down the engine, remember there is an acceptable level of contaminants that can be found in the filter. (That is why we run a filter.) You need to be careful and look for small parts of the main, rod, and cam bearings. These are metal particles resembling small pieces of lead or copper, and will most likely look like metal flakes. Remember, anything you find in the filter has already gone through the oil pump, so it is a good bet that it will be a bit distorted after the trip through the pump gears. -J.H.
Lucas oil products offers a synthetic oil for your passanger car.
Power Vs. Durability
What type of oil should the weekly racer use as a good compromise between power and durability?
To answer that question and more, we contacted Manny Gutierrez of Lucas Oil Products to get the scoop on the type of oil the weekly racer should be running.
The questions center on the Saturday night stock car racer. The needs they have are different from the Sprint Car racer with a $35,000 engine and a $20,000 tire budget. This is intended for the racer with a Bomber stock, limited resources, and possibly a front-wheel-drive car, but with a competitive nature and will to win.
The powerplant considered is a stock V-8 (or a V-6), or even an import four-cylinder with headers, with possibly an upgraded intake manifold and upgraded ignition. Most engine modifications would be external. These types of cars race on quarter-mile to three-eighths-mile dirt ovals, typically racing three to four times per month during the season.
SCR: What kind of oil does the average weekend racer need?
Gutierrez: This type of racer needs to be running a slightly heavier petroleum oil: 20-50 petroleum is the ideal choice.
SCR: Would you recommend that this racer use synthetic oil or should he or she stick with petroleum oil?
Gutierrez: This racer needs petroleum oil because it is much more cost effective and will provide adequate protection.
SCR: How often should the oil be changed?
Gutierrez: Once a month. This is well within the oil's life span and will save the racer money because he or she won't have to change the oil every race, like the Sprint Car racer.
SCR: Should racers be running lighter oil or heavier oil, from a generic perspective?
Gutierrez: From a generic perspective, heavier oil will slightly hinder performance, but if the issue is saving money, the heavier oil will better protect the racer's investment and keep the engine running longer.
SCR: Is Water Wetter an advantage for this type of racer?
Gutierrez: Water Wetter is always an advantage; lower water temperature means more performance and less wear.
SCR: Would installing an oil cooler be an advantage?
Gutierrez: Installing an oil cooler would be an advantage for protecting the motor. The hotter oil gets, the thinner it gets and the less it protects. -J.H.