Racing Fire-Suppression System - Cease Fire

Firecharger is a bit different from the oxygen-robbing gas system.

Instead of an inert gas, Firecharger floods the area with a fire-suppressing, water-based foam similar to the substance used by airport firefighting crews.

The system was developed in Europe and is gradually becoming accepted in the United States.

It consists of an aluminum canister filled with a water-based foam and a cylinder of highly compressed CO2. When the system is activated, the compressed gas container is punctured, which pressurizes the foam reservoir, forcing the foam through the lines and out the nozzles.

There are a couple of drawbacks to the Firecharger system and one significant advantage.

Unlike halon, the foam will leave a bit of water-soluble residue that will need to be cleaned up.

"It isn't much," says Genibrel. "It's about like overspray from using a degreaser. In most cases, you can clean up the residue with a damp cloth in less than half an hour."

The other consideration is that because the foam is water based, the bottle needs to be removed if the car will be stored where temperatures will fall below freezing.

It's a five-minute job, but forgetting to do it at the end of the season can easily destroy the container.

Perhaps the greatest advantage of the Firecharger system is that once it is used, you don't have to send away for a $250 replacement container of halon. The Firecharger system can be recharged at the track by mixing a pre-measured bottle of the fire retardant with water, refilling the cylinder with the mixture, and screwing on another compressed gas cylinder.

The cost of the recharging kit is about $50.

"You can do the entire operation in under 15 minutes," Genebril says.

No matter which system you purchase, the basic parts and pieces are the same.

Each has a container of fire suppressant and an end piece with a trigger. They have outlets for lines feeding nozzles, enough aluminum tube to run the entire length of the car, and fittings and nozzles to feed two or three discharge points.

You can switch from one system to the other and retain most of the plumbing. The discharge nozzles are different for each system, but the ends can be interchanged on the aluminum tubing.

Installation can be done in a couple of hours or less.

"I've done enough that, unless the owner wants something really out of the ordinary, I can have the entire system installed in about 30 minutes," says Walters.

It doesn't take any tools you wouldn't normally have in a race shop.

A fire system may not be what you want to spend part of your race budget on, but as long as you have to do it, do it right.

First, figure out where you want the system bottle. Most manufacturers require them to be installed either horizontally or with the nozzle head pointing up because the feed tube extends to the bottom of the bottle.

Walters installs them on the driver side of the car, with the trigger extending through the sheetmetal next to the A-pillar, where both the driver and rescue worker can reach it quickly.

Some drivers prefer to install just the trigger near the window opening and mount the system reservoir on the passenger side, where it can be used to help weight distribution.

Consider also that some tech inspectors may want to look at the pressure gauge to be sure the system hasn't already been discharged, so mount the bottle where the pressure gauge (if it has one) can be easily checked. The Firecharger system is checked by removing the bottle and weighing it, so give that some consideration when deciding the best place to install it.

When locating a Halon-style system, be sure to keep it away from the exhaust system. Because the gas in the canister is already pressurized, heat from the exhaust can increase the pressure enough to rupture the seal and make it discharge on its own. (Been there, replaced that.) For the same reason, manufacturers also advise against placing the canister in direct sunlight for an extended period of time.

Plumbing is easier than installing brake lines. The aluminum tubing is easy to shape by hand or with a small tubing bender. Just don't overdo it and crimp the tube.

An alternative to using the aluminum tubing is to substitute steel-braided hose for the hard lines. It is easier to work with because you don't have to pre-shape the lines before you install them. It looks really neat, but it can easily double the cost of the project-and you've already bought the aluminum tubing as part of the package.

Every manufacturer includes clamps with its kit, but be prepared to buy a few more if your lines take a lot of twists and turns. Better to have too many clamps than to have the tube rattle around and crack because it wasn't secure. As with brake lines, pay attention to moving parts near the lines to be sure nothing will crush them.

Take your time in figuring out how and where to place the outlet nozzles. Halon nozzles usually have three cone-shaped discharge holes to spray a wide pattern. The foam system uses a long, thin slot as a discharge. Once you have the nozzles pointed in the right direction, it doesn't hurt to use a bit of thread sealer on the final connection just to keep everything pointed in the right direction.

Pay attention to Walters' suggestion: Consider the most probable causes of a car fire and give those areas priority. Lastly, and this is especially true if you race on dirt, add checking the outlet nozzles to the weekly pre-race routine. If you ever need to pull the trigger, the system won't do you any good if the discharge ports are packed with clay.