The Maintenance Routine - Tech File

4 Wipe down the entire vehicle with a rag and some type of solvent. Simple Green is great for this type of cleaning. This gives you another opportunity to really inspect the vehicle. If you have any naked steel components (with no paint or plating) use some WD-40 or a similar product to wipe the bare metal components to prevent rust.

5 Change the engine oil on a schedule that meets your needs. Many short-track racers change the oil and filter every third race. The frequency will be determined by the type of racing you do.

6 Remove and pack all the wheel bearings. This is also a great time to look for any signs of overheated bearings. If the bearings appear overheated, replace them along with the seals.

7 Remove, clean, and grease the ball joints. If you decide that removal of the ball joints is more than you want to tackle, you still need to make sure they are clean and well lubricated. This is a good place to check the suspension to ensure that it is moving freely and there are no binds or tight spots. This is a critical step.

8 If your series travels to multiple tracks, you may need to change the gear. At the very least, you need to look at the gear oil and the transmission oil. Again, if there are signs of extreme temperature, it will be necessary to go even deeper to make sure there is no damage. If the transmission or the rearend has a cooler, check the fittings for leakage and the brackets for cracks or damage.

9 Bleed the brakes and add or change the brake fluid. Many racers don't do this enough. The brake fluid goes through extreme duty in most race cars, more than it would ever go through in a street car. The extreme temperature levels followed by a cooldown can cause water to enter the system. When this happens, you can get corrosion and degradation in the performance of the fluid, which goes hand in hand with poor overall brake performance. Bleeding the brakes and changing the fluid at regular intervals helps prevent this issue from becoming a problem.

10 Check the radiator and the hoses, and top off the coolant. Also, check the power steering fluid levels and the hoses as well as the power steering cooler (if you run one). If you find yourself adding a significant amount of coolant, you need to ask why. Check for any leaks or signs of leaks in the cooling system.

11 While you are in the engine compartment, do a visual inspection and look for any loose or damaged nuts or bolts. Look for any signs of oil or coolant leakage. Check the oil level and add as required to fill the engine to the appropriate level. Examine all the belts for damage and correct tension. Examine the throttle linkage and clean and lubricate any mechanical joints. If you use a cable to actuate the carburetor, make sure the cable and the ends are in good operating condition. Make sure you are getting full throttle and that the throttle closes 100 percent when the pedal in the driver's compartment is released. This is something many racers neglect. Clean the air filter. It's not a bad idea to remove the valve covers and look at the valvetrain. This takes about 10 minutes, and it's never a waste of time to make sure that nothing is amiss. If you are running a mechanical cam, this would be a good time to check the valve adjustment. The purpose of this inspection is to look for any obvious signs of problems. If you see burned oil on the components or if the rockers are not covered with a good amount of oil, you need to ask why-better now than at the racetrack when the engine blows up in your wallet.

12 Check all of the steering components, from the wheel in the driver's compartment (especially the quick disconnect hub if you run one to the steering linkage) to the spindles. Lubricate all of the steering components. If you were involved in an on-track incident or kissed the wall, you need to check the steering system components for any signs of damage or lack of lubrication.