Robbie Jordan prepares to...
Robbie Jordan prepares to inspect the hubs and repack the wheel bearings in his Dirt Late Model. Most drive hubs are similar to this one with only minor differences between manufacturers. The first step, obviously, is to unbolt the aluminum drive flange.
The debate still rages about whether crate motors are a boon or bane for stock car racing, but one thing that cannot be argued is that crate motor classes have made Dirt Late Model a surprisingly affordable class. This is because the big guys in the Super Late Models are constantly cycling their chassis after a season or less, so it is usually easy to find a mildly used chassis on the cheap. Sometimes even a roller that will then have an inexpensive crate motor dropped into it.
The problem that comes with it, however, is that inexperienced racers can get into the class and quickly find themselves in over their heads. So in this and future installments of Dirt Tech we will often cover maintenance tasks that should be performed regularly to avoid breakdowns or other problems. Fortunately, whether you drive a Super Late Model or a Hobby Stock, many of these tasks are similar and something can be learned from everyone.
This time we followed along as Late Model racer Robbie Jordan invested an hour inspecting his hubs and repacking his wheel bearings. These components aren't exactly cheap, and Jordan says that pulling down the hubs to look for potential problems and repacking the bearings is a great way to extend the lifespan of these parts.
This is a task that probably should be performed after every four to five races, or at least at the midpoint of your racing season. Also, we all know that a pressure washer is about the only way to get a dirt car clean, but be careful not to spray high pressure water directly at the joint where the hub and the drive flange meet. This can sometimes allow water inside the hub, ruining your wheel bearings.

If you have a full-floating...

If you have a full-floating rear, the axle should slide right out once the drive flange is out of the way.

Unbolt the brake caliper and...

Unbolt the brake caliper and set it aside. You may need to clamp it, or use a zip tie, to secure it to some part of the car so it does not hang by the brake line.

Remove the two screws that...

Remove the two screws that hold the lock collar in place and then remove the collar. This thin piece of metal keeps the hub nut from backing out. You can see the tab that keeps the collar from spinning at the top of the axle tube.

The hub nut threads onto the...

The hub nut threads onto the axle tube and holds the hub in position. It doesn't have to be tight, so you can sometimes get it off with a large pair of Channel Locks, but a socket like this is much easier.

With the hub nut out of the...

With the hub nut out of the way, you can remove the outer bearing assembly.

A neat trick Jordan showed...

A neat trick Jordan showed us was once the outer bearing is out of the way, spin the hub nut back on the axle tubes and pull the hub off. The nut will catch the inner bearing assembly and seal, leaving them hanging on the axle tube after the hub is off. This is easier on the seal than trying to use a seal puller, and makes it much more likely that the seal can be reused.