At the front corners, AFCO...
At the front corners, AFCO upper A frames are used along with their tall ball joints. Look closely and you will see the AFCO weight jack plate with a ball swivel. This allows the spring to seek its pressure point without putting the spring in a side-load condition.
Using my shop-made caster/camber gauges, we began setting the front end. These gauges have been detailed in SCR before. It is a tube that hooks into the upper and lower ball joints with a rod welded on at a 90-degree angle. A $10 angle finder magnetizes to the rod. Caster is read directly without turning the wheels. Our initial caster setting was 311/42 degrees on the right and 2 degrees on the left. This will likely change according to the truck's handling on a given track or to suit the driver's feel for the truck.
Camber was set using the same gauge but a different part of it. The welded-on rod fits in the indentation rings of the wheel. Then the angle finder was used to read the camber directly. We started with 5 degrees negative on the right and 3 degrees positive on the left. We will read the tires with a temperature gauge to determine if changes are needed.
You can see the Port City...
You can see the Port City Racing adjustable drag link. The adjustment allows for bumpsteer adjustments. Just above the drag link is one of the KRC multigroove pulleys for the serpentine drive belt. This belt drives the alternator, water pump, and (of course) the KRC power steering pump.
Finally, we arrive at toe setting. When setting toe, realize that making the adjustment on only one side (resulting in unequal-length tie rods) will impact Ackermann effect on steering. The longer side tie rod will reduce Ackermann on that side. You may or may not want this to happen. However, this is an adjustment that a sharp racer can use.
Again, I used my shop-built toe gauges. These are H-shaped pieces with one leg long (28 inches), one leg short (13 inches), and the middle cross bar is 18 inches long. One of these was placed on each front wheel, much like toe plates, except these nestle in the ridges of the wheel. Use two steel tapes, one at the front and one at the back edges of the 'H.' Our preliminary starting point was to set the toe at 31/416 inch out. After we finished with the adjustments, the truck was placed on a set of Intercomp scales.
Another view of the front...
Another view of the front suspension. In addition to the spring with its swivel plate weight jack, the US Brake oversized piston metric caliper is installed.
Yes, we're light by Fastruck rules, so lead was added, 225 pounds of it, in the form of A&A clamp-on weights. Some were put on the left and more to the rear.
Our weight, including the driver, once we reached a legal point, had the truck with a 48 percent rear and 55 percent left weight with a 53 percent crossweight. Remember, these numbers are all subject to change as determined by the track and our driver. Don't be afraid to adjust your truck and keep notes. Next time we will be on the track.

A&A Manufacturing weld-on...

A&A Manufacturing weld-on shock mounts are used in front. Tack weld only until you cycle the suspension. There is minimal clearance between the chassis and the path the shock takes.

We tried to use this large...

We tried to use this large tubular Howe sway bar. No, it wouldn't fit without some illegal modifications to the truck. Another call to Chas Howe and we swapped for the correct one that was OE styled.